• 作者: dfmzhu
• 来源: 佛山展翅调酒师学
• 日期: 2015-03-03
• 浏览次数: 2115 次

1. 鸡尾酒是需要解答的问题。
想想看，我怎样才能呈现某种特殊的味道、结构或外观？我怎样才能改善我面前的这杯酒？和其它有意义的追求一样，调酒是持续一生的事业。你知道的越多，便会有更多的问题。你实践得越多，越会意识到自己的技巧有所欠缺。完美是我们的目标，而不无幸运地是，没人可以做到完美。为了调出完美的金汤力，我已经花费了七年时间和上千块美金；可我依旧还在探索。如果我已经收手、已经满足的话，那该多无聊啊！

1. Cocktails are problems in need of solutions.
Think, How can I achieve a particular taste, texture, or look? How can I make the drink in front of me better? Taking cocktails seriously, as with all worthy inquiries, puts you on a lifelong journey. The more you know, the more questions you raise. The better a practitioner you become, the more you see the faults in your technique. Perfection is the goal, but perfection is, mercifully, unattainable. I have spent seven years and thousands of dollars on the problem of the perfect gin and tonic; I still have work to do. How boring if I were finished – if I were satisfied.

2. 像科学家一样思考。
懂点科学知识很有好处。要像科学家一样思考，这样你会制作出更好的酒饮。你无需成为一名科学家，甚至也不需要了解太多科学知识，就能将科学方法为你所用。控制变量，观察并检查结果；大致上仅此而已。

2. Think like a scientist.
A little dose of science will do you good. Think like a scientist, and you will make better drinks. You don’t need to be a scientist, or even understand much science, to use the scientific method to your advantage. Control variables, observe, and test your results; that’s pretty much it.

3. 远离“分子调酒术”。
分子调酒术毫无可取之处：它只是市场推广的鬼把戏而已，调出来的酒都不是很好喝，科学在这里走错了方向。我的指导方针很简单：只使用那些能改善酒饮口味的新技法和新工艺；调酒时原料种类宁少勿多；别指望客人会了解你的调酒过程而喜欢上它；成功的衡量标准是客人会不会再点一杯，而不是他/她认为这款酒很“有趣”；培养并信任你的味觉。

3. Resist the term “molecular mixology”.
The connotations of molecular are all bad: gimmicks for gimmicks’ sake, drinks that don’t taste very good, science gone wrong. My guidelines are simple: use new techniques and technologies only when they make the drink taste better; strive to make an amazing drink with fewer rather than more ingredients; don’t expect a guest to know how you made a drink in order to enjoy it; gauge success by whether your guest orders another, not by whether he or she thinks the drink is “interesting”; build and follow your palate.

4. 我不是不开心，但我从不满足。
精益求精。不断挑战自己——尤其是你的基本宗旨和练习——会促进你不断进步，无论在吧台后、烘箱前还是你选择的任何领域。我乐于见到自己坚信的理论被证实错误。这让我感到充满活力、一直在学习。

4. I am not unhappy, but I am never satisfied.
There’s always a better way. Constantly questioning yourself – especially your basic tenets and practices – makes you a better person behind the bar, in front of the stove, or in whatever field you choose. I love it when my dearly held beliefs are proved wrong. It means I’m alive and still learning.

5. 学会如何妥协。
我讨厌妥协。我讨厌投机取巧，但有些时候不得不如此。你对每件事都要采取不妥协的态度，但被迫妥协时又知道如何将影响降到最低。你关注的重点永远是品质——从原料到酒杯选择，一丝都不可马虎。有些人花大量时间来准备调酒原料，但却在最后一刻让所有努力白费，真是令人咋舌。要记住，制作过程中的任何一个步骤都可以毁掉一杯酒。身为饮品制作者，你在饮品完成之前都必须保持警戒——而身为含酒精饮品的制作者，你的职责在客人安全到家后才宣告结束。

5. Learn how to compromise.
I hate compromising. And I hate cutting corners, but sometimes I have to. You need to keep hating compromise at every turn while knowing how to compromise with minimum impact when necessary. Always be focused on the critical path to quality, from raw ingredients to the cup. I am often surprised by how much work someone will put into making ingredients for a drink, only to destroy all that work at the last moment. Remember, a drink can be ruined at any stage of its creation. Your responsibility for vigilance as a drink maker doesn’t end until the drink is finished – and your responsibility as an alcoholic-drink maker doesn’t end until the imbiber is safe and sound at home.

6. 使用高量杯。
在瘦高型量杯和矮胖型量杯之间，我永远选择高的那个。它们可精确多了。矮量杯一毫米酒液的误差要远远大于高量杯。

6. Use tall jiggers.
Given a choice between tall, skinny jiggers and short, squat jiggers, I always choose the tall. They are far more accurate. A pour that’s a millimeter higher or lower in a wide jigger constitutes a much larger error than it does in a skinny jigger.

7. 酒饮应该按体积计算。
我是按重量烹饪的坚定信徒，但调酒时我依据的是体积，而且你也应该如此。对调酒师而言，饮品最终的重量并不重要，重要的是其体积。体积决定了液面离杯沿有多近。这条线叫做液面线，而保持一个合理液面线是调酒必不可少的一部分。以职业角度而言，保持酒饮的品质稳定至关重要。为每杯酒制定液面线标准有助于肉眼检查是否有错误。如果液面线不对，那么这杯酒肯定出了点问题。始终如一的液面线对客人利益也十分重要。两位客人点了同一款酒，但其中一杯要更满：酒更满的那位客人更讨你喜欢，还是你的技术不过硬？

7. Drinks should be measured by volume.
I am a big believer in cooking by weight, but I mix drinks by volume, and so should you. For the bartender, the weight of the finished beverage isn’t important, but the volume is. The volume determines how close the top of the finished drink will be to the rim of the glass. This liquid line is called the wash line, and maintaining a proper wash line is essential to good bartending. In a professional setting, it is essential that your drinks be consistent. Having standard wash lines for each drink you prepare gives you an instant visual check that everything is okay. If your wash line is wrong, something is wrong with the drink. Consistent wash lines are also important to your guests’ well-being. Two people get the same drink, but one drink sits higher in the glass: do you like the person with the taller pour more, or are your techniques just a bit shaky?

8. 盐是个秘密武器。
盐几乎是我所有鸡尾酒里的秘密武器。一小撮盐可以让任何一款含有水果、巧克力或咖啡的鸡尾酒更上一层楼。我很少希望酒尝起来是咸的，应该品尝不出盐的味道。你下次调酒时可以将调好的酒分为两杯，一杯加少许盐，另一杯不加。品尝它们的不同口感——从此你再也不会将盐遗忘在角落。在家里直接加一小撮盐也没问题，可在酒吧我们需要更加精确，因此我们将使用稀释盐水：将20克食盐融于80毫升水（稀释度20%）。一到两滴这种稀释盐水就能为你的鸡尾酒画龙点睛。

8. Salt is your secret weapon.
Salt is the secret ingredient in almost all my cocktails. Any cocktail that includes fruit, chocolate, or coffee benefits from a pinch of salt. I rarely want a drink to taste salty; the salt should be subthreshold. The next time you make a cocktail, divide it into two glasses and add a pinch of salt to one glass but not the other. Taste the difference – you will never forget the salt again. At home you can get away with adding a pinch. At the bar we have to be more precise, so we use a saline solution: 20 grams of salt in 80 milliliters of water (20 per cent solution). A drop or two of this is all it takes to make a cocktail pop.

9. 别过于看重摇酒技巧……
有些调酒新手被误导了，他们相信摇酒是一种功夫般的艺术，经过多年训练才能精通。不然。在观摩其他一部分调酒师摇酒之后，他们或许还坚信正确的摇酒不亚于一次有氧运动。同样不然。而且他们可能以为要用最优质的冰块才能做出最好的鸡尾酒。（多半）不然。我要告诉你们一个好消息！使用几乎任何种类的冰块持续摇晃10秒以上，摇出来的酒都一样可口和稳定。从技术角度而言，摇酒技巧根本不重要。摇得不够用力可能会令稀释程度不够，但我几乎从未见过这种情况。另一方面，我对疯狂式的摇酒进行了实验（我将其称为“疯猴子”），那样发狂般地摇酒并不会降低最终温度或者提高稀释度。只要你摇到8-12秒钟，那么最后做出来的酒无论如何都几乎一样。如果你摇的时间少于8秒钟，那么也许稀释度不够。如果你摇了超过12秒，几乎没有更多效果——不过在浪费你的时间和精力。摇酒技巧真的不太重要，然而它会给你的风格加分——在鸡尾酒世界，你可千万不能忽略个人风格。

9. Don’t hyperfocus on your shaking technique…
Some cocktail neophytes have been led to believe that shaking is a kung fu–style art whose heights can be scaled only after years of training. Not true. They might also believe, watching some bartenders shake their tins, that proper technique involves an aerobic workout. Also not true. And they may be under the impression that the best cocktails can
be achieved only with the very best ice. (Mostly) not true. Good news! Any reasonable shaking technique that lasts at least ten seconds, using almost any kind of ice, can make a delicious and consistent shaken cocktail. From a technical standpoint, your shaking technique doesn’t matter at all. It’s possible to shake so languidly
that you underdilute, but I’ve almost never seen this happen. On the flip side, my tests of a maniacal shake that I dubbed the “crazy monkey” reveal that going bonkers doesn’t decrease final temperature or increase dilution. As long as you shake for between 8 and 12 seconds, your cocktails will be about the same, no matter what you do. If you shake for less than 8, you might be underdiluted. If you shake more than 12, almost nothing additional happens – you are just wasting time and energy. Shaking technique does matter quite considerably, however, in style points – and style is not to be ignored in the cocktail world.

10. ……也别太在乎你用的冰块了。
多年以来，我用不同种类的冰块进行过许多摇酒实验。我用分析法测量稀释度，我用并行法尝试口感。结果几乎总是一致：只要你遵循几个简单法则，使用的冰块种类几乎不会影响稀释度。不论是酒店制冰机制作的3⁄4英寸（约20毫米）的中空冰块，还是用Kold-Draft牌制冰机制作的11⁄4英寸（约30毫米）的固态冰块（该品牌系列能够制作出你能找到的几乎所有冰），尽管冰块表面积大不相同，但它们对鸡尾酒的稀释度几乎一样。诀窍是确保在摇酒前倒掉冰块表面的化水：先在小型调酒听内混合所需原料，在将冰块放入较大的摇壶内，盖上滤网后将摇壶头朝下用力甩动，以去除多余的水。然后将冰块倒入小型摇壶内摇匀。

10. …or the ice you use.
Over the years I have run many tests shaking different cocktails with different kinds of ice. I’ve measured the dilution analytically and I’ve done side-by-side taste tests. The results are almost always the same: provided you follow a few simple rules, the kind of ice you use almost never affects dilution. Any ice, from the 3⁄4-inch (20 mm) hollow cubes of hotel dispensers up to the 11⁄4-inch (30 mm) solid cubes from a Kold-Draft machine (this range includes almost all the ice you will come across), will dilute your drink the same amount, even though these cubes have radically different surface areas. The trick is to make sure you throw the surface water off the cubes before you shake: mix your cocktail in a small mixing tin, then put your ice into the larger tin, cap that tin with a strainer, and violently flick the tin downward to get rid of excess water. Put the ice into the smaller tin and shake.